Monday, August 20, 2007

Day 4: Ahmedabad – Adalaj Wav (Baoli) – Udwada.

Woke up nice and chirpy for the sleep at the Cama hotel, had a few laughs a big big breakfast and set out to see Adalaj Baori which is 19 km north (yes, the other way) of Ahmedabad, drove right past Sabarmati Ashram (Gandhi's main crib from where he basically ran the independence movement) and after some insane city driving and getting pulled over by traffic cops for not having these silly yellow stickers on either side of our headlights (which we would spin by acting like we stopped to ask them for directions, and telling them we're from Delhi and going to Mumbai). We found ourselves at this amazing step well. I think it's the largest of its kind ever. Its so ornate, and exquisitely carved that it does take the breath away. Dad was much impressed, as was I. An old gentleman with a lathi was sitting at the first landing down (its five stories deep). When I casually enquired what the four rooms around the landing were, he engaged dad in a heavy Gujarati accent and told him the entire story of how the Maharani of the time wanted her husband to build her this, and he died half way through the construction, and how other Mughal Muslim royal princes and suitors tried to woo her by helping her with each of the next levels. I've taken two video shots as well to give you a sense of the quite calm and solitude. It was at least 10 degrees cooler on the 3rd and 4th levels than up at the surface. And well worth seeing.

Back to the Cama hotel (turns out everyone who even isn't in Ahmedabad knows it – aunt wasn't surprised when we told her we were staying there, and she's never even been to this city). Then we went in search for the road to Baroda. Now, I've decided. Maps of India, Road Atlases bought by dad and other such AA aids we had were all CRAP. At the end of the day, it was the Lonely planet guide's little city schematics that made the most sense, and that helped me get to most places. Dad's been very impressed by my navigation in cities unknown, I owe it to the LP, hands down the best thing you can have on this trip (and a little charm with which to woo the locals to not give you bad directions when you most need them). So, we drive through INSANE Ahmedabad traffic and finally after many more interactions with cops that turned into amazing efforts at helpfulness to two gujarati speakers. (well, one quasi-speaker). We found our way to NE1. Wait, this isn't NH8. Nooo. Forget about about National Highway's, this is National Expressway 1. This had to be the fastest and smoothest road we've taken so far. Both dad and I were thinking, if only these wheels were balanced a bit better so the car wouldn't wobble past 80 (kph). But hey, it was smooth booooring driving. We stopped at a proper NE style pull over rest station with all the mod cons like a snazzy food court and other such conveniences. It was a sterile sterile place, and really boring. The Chinese we ate for lunch was as dull. Then we scooted all the way to Vadodra. Then, things got interesting. You see. After Vadodra, we had to get to Surat, and this chunk of road has us harking back to driving in India of last year. Miles of potholed surfaces with the two or three smooth stretches in between major diversions and single lane backups across rivers, (Oh, we crossed the Narmada and the Godavari .. nice moments). Truck traffic beyond belief with very obnoxious bus drivers and private taxi drivers always cutting in, hogging our behind it was not NOT fun. But after Surat thankfully the road turned back into some very nice 4 lane highway. From where we had to hightail it to Udwada to make it to this one horse town in time for Dinner. But generally there is a consensus in this car that Gujarat is not the best state for a casual drive through. It's all about getting from one end to the other as fast as possible.

So here we are, so glad we're out of our car, and quite thankful that Bombay is only 4 hours away. I parked the car in front of a sign that said, Alcohol strictly prohibited on these premises. Dad walked into the reception of this Parsi establishment in this very Parsi town and said, can we get a beer to our room? Sure! Thank god for Parsi's!

Then we settled in for a home cooked meal which would leave my brother so amazingly jealous. It was Sali Murgi, Fried Boi (an amazing kind of fish), and Rotlis. Followed by Lagan to Custar.. MM mm MMM MMM mmmmhhhhh! Eat your heart out Bhai.

So now, TV, blog, sleep. No decent network here, so post the pics tomorrow.

G'night all! Oh, and a Happy Navroz Mubarak to all of you too! From Dhun Dee and Me.

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